Seville The City Of Fiesta

Posted on February 19, 2008 - Filed Under Travel and Leisure

Situated in south western Andalucia, Seville, the capital city, sits astride the mighty Rio Guadalquivir at the head of the Donana National Park, Spain largest nature reserve.

Seville enjoys a very sunny climate but can and does suffer from very high temperatures during the height of the summer. Therefore, the spring and autumn months are the preferred time of year to visit. At this time with flowers in full bloom Seville is stunning.

Seville proudly starts the ‘feria’ season in Andalusia when it holds the two-week Feria de Abril (the April Feria) This follows two weeks after the week-long Easter Celebrations of Samana Santa. During Easter they hold huge elaborate parades of many hours duration. Eager volunteers carry enormous effigies on floats (pasos) depicting Jesus on the Cross, The Blessed Virgin or various scenes from the Last Supper. The Penitents, fully covered in silken gowns with tall pointed hoods (made infamous by the Klu Kulx Klan) march solemnly with the processions.

For those not deeply involved in the solemnity of the occasion there are numerous cafes, bars and restaurants willing to serve you well into the night. Once the celebrations of Semana Santa are over the bullfighting season gets underway with the Feria de Abril.

Romance and flamboyance sum up Seville because Seville is the cradle of flamenco and flamenco is the essence of ‘feria’. Andalucians take ‘feria’ very seriously, as this is serious party time. ‘Sevillanos’ are out to show off their style and flair. The festivities revolve around bullfighting, horses, wine, and flamenco. Mid-day parades consist of shining, strutting, proud Andalucian horses bearing their handsome riders, often with their “novia” sat behind. Horse drawn carriages, harness bells jingling, trot around the city. They are filled with happy people calling out to friends and relatives who line the streets.

The streets, decorated with paper lanterns, bright flowers and huge speakers, overflow with gossiping, chattering diners during the lunch time period and impromptu flamenco breaks out everywhere. It’s time for siesta, after which the bullfighting commences.

In the evening, (for evening read midnight) people head for the main Feria ground, across the river from the city centre, in Triana. The brightly lit fairground is enormous and the seemingly constant fireworks enliven an already heady atmosphere. Pavilions (temporary bars both private and public) abound each with its own music and shows entertaining friends and acquaintances.. Everyone wanders freely enjoying a chat and some “tapas” with a glass of “manzanilla”. Strolling, dancing, drinking and eating all the way to dawn when “churros’ become available. This is a sweet sugar-coated stick of deep-fried batter dipped in thick chocolate. Delicious…but not for me thanks, I need my bed.

The old city centre is dominated by the gigantic Seville Cathedral. The third largest cathedral in Christendom, it has an odd neighbour. The Giralda, Seville’s best known landmark is the remaining minaret of the mosque on whose foundations the cathedral now stands. Christianity and Islam side by side in peace…wonderful. Take time to explore both buildings and absorb their uniqueness. Later maybe take a horse-drawn carriage drive from the Patio de Naranjas (think Seville oranges) around other parts of Seville, along the riverbank or through the Maria Luisa Park.

The park adjoins the fascinating Plaza de Espana. This large plaza has an impressive semi- circular building enclosing half the perimeter. Dominated by two grand spires and arches supported by fine columns, this building is now home to government and military offices. Beneath each arch is a depiction in ceramic tiles of all the provinces of Spain. Other areas of interest are the royal Mudéjar palace known as the Alcazar where you can stroll in the wonderful gardens. In the Santa Cruz quarter, the cozy tight streets burst with colour from the decoration and the floral arrangements.

Tapas, those very tasty snacks, are a part of the Spanish way of life. ‘Tapas’ bars abound. Hardly anywhere in Spain will you find more variety than in Seville. Choices range from tripe and chick peas, lamb with honey or grilled baby squid to tiny grilled birds or fine cured hams. With the vast Guadalquivir River connection to the sea, Seville restaurants serve delicious seafood in a whole myriad of styles. Along with the ‘tapas’, the selection of wines and sherries is as vast as it is delightful. Just find what suits you.

The grand hotels in Seville are grand like Seville itself, the Alfonso XIII being a prime example (take a tour of the lobby) Many hotels are former mansions and large town houses designed in the old Moorish style with a central courtyard open to the sky. Modest hostels (’hostals’ in Sevilla) are plentiful, cheap and comfortable, many offering internet connections.

Seville’s San Pablo Airport has daily scheduled connections with international destinations although the majority of flights are internal. It lies 12 km north of the city and if you hire a car the road you need is the E-5 motorway. Otherwise let the taxi, bus or airport transfer company take the strain for you. There are no trains at present.

The AVE high-speed trains conveniently links Seville to Madrid and Malaga (not yet fully completed) with a journey time of less than three hours aiding the city in business and tourism. This is a great way to see more of the country during your visit. Look for the Santa Justa Train Station in your guide book

The style, wit and pure joy of living that is expressed by the ‘Sevillanos’ in their daily lives will never leave you once you experience Seville. “Quien no visto Sevilla, ho ha visto maravilla” He who has not seen Seville, has not known marvel.

Edward Kirwan, resides in Andalucia,
Southern Spain and with Danish writer, Dorte Holm Jensen, is co-founder of

Finca Fantastica
Travel. Visit them for
more travel ideas.

Tags: flamenco, hostals in Seville, madrid to Seville, sevilla, seville, seville cathedral, tapas bars

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